Ever wondered
about the history of the bra?
How did the bra
come about? Who invented the bra?
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| A brief history
of bras |
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2000 BC The Corset can be traced back
to about 2000 BC. It was open at the front to the waist,
leaving the breasts uncovered. Small strips of leather
round the waist were used to curve round the outline
of the breasts.
2500 B.C. - Warrior Minoan
women start wearing a bra-like garment. Women on the
island of Crete begin using bra-like garments to lift
their bare breasts out of their clothing.
450BC – 285AD: Roman and Greek
women preferred to play down their chests, using a
band strapped around
their breasts to reduce their bust size
1550’s AD: Catherine de Médicis, wife
of King Henri II of France enforces a ban on "thick
waists" at court functions through the introduction
of the steel corset. The corset becomes the main undergarment
of support and restraint for women. Renaissance - Women
stuff their undergarments with silk pouches and hankies
to create a bustline.
1820s A "corset mecanique" was
actually invented in the 1820s which allowed women
to squeeze into their corsets with the help of pulleys,
without having to use the servants. Corsets at the
time were made of whalebone, steel or buckram.
1850s US patents registered for first known bra-like
devices.
Corsets fall out of style for about 10 years.
1860s Corsets come back in fashion with a vengeance.
Severe corset "training" is common which
reduces waists to such unhealthy levels that ribs and
internal organs become deformed. Controversy over corseting
health risks ensues.
1860’s: Corsets return to fashion. Corset "training" becomes
the norm - reducing waists to such unhealthy levels
that ribs and internal organs become deformed. This
sparks controversy over the health risk of corseting.
1863- Luman Chapman patents a breast supporter.
1867 The "Thompson Patent Glove-Fitting
Corset" of 1867 had a spring latch and snaps at
the front, as well as the traditional hooks. The corset
was designed to prevent it opening accidentally! The
latter years of the 19th Century began to see challenges
to the traditional views of the ideal woman, and the
painful and unhealthy undergarments that they were
expected to wear
1875 In 1875, manufacturers George Frost
and George Phelps patented an undergarment called the "Union
Under-Flannel". Unlike a corset, it had no bones,
eyelets or laces and required no pulleys and was made
from wool fabrics. Susan Taylor Convese made improvements
to this design.
1877 Combinations, consisting of a chemise
and pantaloons were invented about 1877. These were
often made in red flannels and were crotch-less for
convenience.
1889 Corset-maker Herminie Cadolle invents
a bra-like garment called "Bien-être" ('Well-Being'.)
Resembling a "Victorian bikini", its main
differentiating feature from regular corsets is that
the breasts are supported by the shoulders rather than
squeezed up from below with traditional corset designs.
Although marketed as a health aid beginning in 1889
in a Paris department store ad, the item does not gain
widespread notice. The garment supports the breasts
by the shoulders rather than squeezing them up from
below like a traditional
corset.
1875: Designer Susan Taylor Converse
creates a garment called the “Union Under-Flannel” from
woollen fabric. The garment is different to previous
items as it has no-bones, eyelets, laces or pulleys.
The garment is patented by manufacturers George Frost
and George Phelps.
1893 - Marie Tucek patents the first
modern bra with pouches for the breasts to sit in.
the "Breast Supporter".
This garment is similar to modern-day bras in that
it features a separate pocket for each breast, shoulder
straps, and hook-and-eye closures.
1904 - First sports bra is introduced.
1907: The ever-hip Vogue magazine first
uses the term "brassiere" in its haloed pages.
The term comes from the old French word for 'upper
arm'. Prior to this, bra-like devices were known by
the French term "soutien-gorge", which means "throat
support" or "breast support".
1912: The term "brassiere" first
appears in the Oxford English Dictionary.
1912: Garment maker Otto Titzling is said to have
develop a bra for buxom singer Swanhilda Olafsen. Swanhilda
lived in the same New York boarding house as Otto,
and needed a supporting garment. She was the inspiration
for Otto's breakthrough design, but Otto neglected
to patent his creation, and therefore lost his chance
to be the inventor of the bra.
1913: The first
modern bra to be patented was a silk hanky and pink
ribbon
affair
created
by
New York socialite
Mary Phelps Jacob. Mary had bought a sheer evening
dress to wear to an event, and at the time, the only
undergarment available to her was a corset made with
whaleback bones. Mary found that the bones showed through
the sheer fabric and created her DIY alternative -
It is made from two handkerchiefs, ribbon and cord.
1914: After a year of sharing her creation with friends,
Mary Phelps Jacob applies for a patent (under the
business name "Caresse Crosby") on November
3 for her "Backless Brassiere" design. Mary’s "brassiere" was
very lightweight, soft, and separated the breasts
naturally. Unlike Marie Tucek's 1893 design, Jacob's
garment did not have cups to support the breasts,
but flattened them instead. Jacob markets the "Backless
Brassiere" garment until she tires of the business
and sells the patent to Warner Brothers Corset Company
in Bridgeport, Connecticut, for $1,500. Warner's reportedly
made over $15 million over the next 30 years from
the patent.
1914-1918: The outbreak of World War
I forces women into the work-force. Many women begin
working in factories and wearing uniforms, making the
use of daily corset wear a problem.
1917: The U.S. War Industries Board requests women
to stop buying corsets to reduce the consumption of
metal. Sources say up to 28,000 tons of metal was conserved
through this effort - "enough to build two battleships."
1918: Corset-makers began making bras
designed to flatten rather than enhance the breasts.
1920's - The Maidenform bra company introduces cup
sizes for bras.
1920’s: Warner introduces a tight,
chest-flattening bra, in keeping with the Flapper styles
of the day.
1928: Ida Rosenthal, a Russian immigrant, and her
husband William found Maidenform. Ida is responsible
for the creation of bust size categories (cup sizes)
and developed bras for every stage of life - puberty
to maturity.
1930’s: The shortened form of the word "brassiere" -
the "bra" becomes popular.
1930’s: Warner produces the first popular all-elastic bra, which shows
off a woman's curves.
1935: Warner's creates the modern cup
sizing system (A to D), which is soon adopted by all
bra manufacturers.
1940: Padding was added to bra cups.
1941-1945: Common fabric materials (cotton,
rubber, silk and steel) are in short supply, so manufacturers
turn to synthetic fabrics.
1943 - Howard Hughes uses his aeronautical engineering
expertise to turn Jane Russell into a star thanks to
a cantilevered bra designed to enhance her figure.
1946: The first bikini hits the catwalk
introduced in Paris.
1948 - Fredericks of Hollywood introduce the first
push-up bra, named the 'Rising Sun'.
1950s: Strapless bras were introduced allowing women
to wear off-the-shoulder dresses and still use a bra.
1959 : Warners and Du Pont produced Lycra which is
now used in most bras.
1964 - The Wonderbra is created by Louise
Poirier.
1968: The infamous “bra-burning” occurred,
but it didn’t quite involve busty feminists stripping
off their bras to “free” themselves in
a male dominated society. A group of women were protesting
the 1968 Miss America pageant and threw bras, girdles,
high heels, make up and hairspray into a rubbish bin
as a symbol of their anger. They were protesting for
the liberation of women in a male dominated society,
and saw these objects as restrictive to their cause.
The rubbish bin was set alight – hence the “bra-burning” reference.
1960s and 70s - Feminists burn their bras.
1969 - The Invisible Bra is introduced,
ideal for the flat-chested Twiggies.
1973: The first
no-bounce sports bra
was introduced.
1990s - Madonna sports Jean Paul Gaultier's 3-D 'pointy'
bra.
This is a compilation of various research on the history
of the bra. If you think we've missed something out
then please get in touch!